Mike answers:

Ok, here’s some thoughts on your situation. 1. You don’t really feel comfortable dealing with your neighbor, so don’t 2. There is a problem that could become a safety issue, avoid it 3. The fence is cinderblock that is leaning, masonry fences are supported with a cement foundation or at least there should be one. For it to be leaning there is a foundation problem, meaning a correct repair would require the whole thing to be dismantled, the foundation dug out and reset and rebuild the fence…and that will be really expensive…don’t even offer to help.

My advise to you is to have a fence built on your property, since his fence is leaning into his property this should be simple and cost effective. This is also something that you alone will own and have no future dealings concerning your neighbor (such as maintainance or liability).

It is said that good fences make good neighbors. In this case it would be a good idea to have two, just in case one of them falls down…lol.

It is amirable that you are willing to pay half to repair a neighbors property, but is it really wise?

Good luck to you

Mike answers:

The fence is share unless you have the home surveyed to prove it is on yours or theirs. The fence impacts both of you and you need to discuss with them as you would want them to discuss it with you.

Then you can discuss the option and they may say go ahead but we won’t pay. Repair it yourself and now you know the neighbor. Your municipality may be able to help with info.

Mike answers:

A redwood fence is naturally water and pest resistant and does not really need any sealant. If you really wish to, you can use thompsons water seal, which will be a clear coat and give the wood a slightly “wet” look but not stain or paint it in any way.

Mike answers:

Concrete is always best and http://www.woodengatecompany.co.uk/ there are many to give you an idea (bottom of page)

Mike answers:

Wow. Lot of different birds. Chickens and ducks are ok together, as are guinea fowl. So long as none of them have chicks, in which case, you need separate areas for each. Turkeys are mean, and pheasants are both skittish and territorial.

I know you asked for coop plans, but it sounds like your a Little ill prepared.

Each species should have it’s own yard. What that means is that each species has a fenced in space of it’s own, using regular old ranch fence. Pheasants fly, so you’ll need a fence that goes over as well as around.

You need to face the coops so that the door faces either north or south. This gives the best lighting, but also keeps out the weather, since most weather moves East and West.

Oh, and the number of birds. You need to research how many birds you’ll have. Usually you’ll want a trio or quad, which is one male with two females for a trio, and with three females for a quad. BUT, this means babies. AND, babies aren’t going to be kept in by chain link. Make sure you get fencing that will keep babies from wandering out and getting lost. If you get plastic fence, secure it with ground staples. Ducks, pheasants, guineas, and occasionally chickens will slip under loose fencing.

Keep in mind, you’ll also need One nesting box for every female. A nest box is separate from a coop (though it can be contained IN the coop). Nest boxes should be about twice as wide as the bird that will be nesting in it, and tall enough for the bird to stand up. The hole on the front of the box should be just big enough for the bird to comfortably enter and exit. Turkeys need big boxes, guinea fowl need smaller.

Let me just assure you that if you don’t have nest boxes, the birds will take turns kicking each others eggs out of prime areas. This leads to no one hatching anything.

Duck boxes should be low to the ground, unless you have some unusual species, as should pheasants (though pheasants do occasionally enjoy roosting, and appreciate a space to do so).

To keep mess down, the average space needed (fenced) is ten square feet per bird. Otherwise, it gets messy real quick. I keep my ducks three to a run, and the runs are four foot wide by eight foot long. It works out alright, but I’d still like to make them just a little bigger.

As for coops, they don’t have to be huge. In fact, smaller coops sometimes seem to work better. Figure for everything except the turkeys, you’ll probably need about twelve square feet. That’s a four foot wide by three foot deep coop. Turkeys, well, make it a five foot by four foot and you’ll do ok. Any smaller, and the mess gets unbelievable. Make sure there are perching spots in the coops (except for the ducks).

Oh, and the pheasants and guineas will appreciate some dead branches thrown in their fenced area to hide under. If you can plant some shrubs in their space, great, if not… Dead pine branches are fabulous.

Ok, now that that’s over. The link provided has printable poultry house design plans at the bottom of the page. There’s a LOT of stuff on the page, you don’t have to wait for it to finish loading. Just go to the bottom of the page for the links to the poultry house plans.

Best of luck.